Boulder Creek Wilderness: Cinder Prairie and Skipper Lakes

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“Just annoyed”.  That was the answer I received from my son Colby, asking him if he was ok, as I rousted him at 5:30 in the morning to go hiking. That phrase would pretty much describe the rest of the day in the Boulder Creek Wilderness, the location of my first official spring hike.

Mt. Thielsen and Mt. Bailey from Cinder Prairie

As is sometimes typical, my first official hike of spring began with attempting a tad too high elevation a tad too early in the year. Result: We couldn’t make it to the trailhead due to the snow. Just annoyed. So we went with my backup plan, which was to hike to Cinder Prairie and continue north to Skipper Lakes and return.

A rocky break

The bright summer-like day in April gave promise to a great hike. The hike began on an ill-maintained road for about ¼ mile. Upon reaching the actual trail, it wasn't long before I saw that trying follow any resemblance of a trail would be nearly futile.

Down is easier than up

Nonetheless, like the consummate boy scout, I always hike with my GPS and a map of the area. This would be one of those rare times that if I didn’t have either, I would not have continued on with this hike. So, trying to stay on the “trail” was quite difficult, as I was constantly referring to the map and gps. Just annoyed.

Spring snow melt... still melting

The reason for the lack of any visible trail is due to the fires that happened back in 1996 and 2008. As it states on the Umpqua National Forest website, “Expect rapid brush growth and persistent blowdown in the years to come". 

These fires have created a great change in the landscape, opening up many views, but also obscuring many of the trails with the aforementioned brush growth and blowdowns. Add to this no trail maintenance, and the result can be a bush-whacking, log-dodging experience, which my friend Richard is quite fond of, especially the bush-whacking part. (Ok, neither of us are fond of the log-dodging) Just annoyed.

View of Boulder Creek Wilderness, courtesy of fire

As we continued along the uphill ghost trail, we had plenty of time to catch our breath as I continually paused to check our position, or stopped to tie ribbon on trees to help guide any other foolish hikers who may want to attempt this part of the wilderness.

Finally, upon reaching the wide open, grass covered Cinder Prairie, we were afforded a south-facing view of Mt. Thielsen and Mt. Bailey. We paused to soak in the view.

A little exploring brought us to what appeared to be a dilapidated water trough, perhaps for livestock back in the day. It looked as if it was fed from an underground spring, but had obviously seen better days.

Not for human consumption

On the downhill side of the Cinder Prairie, we were faced with more snow. As I was thinking about the troublesome trek we’d have to make back up this snow-laden hillside, I noticed something that was even more worrisome. The fairly fresh and disconcerting cougar tracks in the snow made the pending walk in the snow seem rather trivial. Just annoyed. And this is why I carry Mr. Springfield and his dozen “kids” with me whenever I’m hiking in remote areas… just in case.

Big, scary cougar tracks...

... going the same direction we are!

The large feline tracks went straight downhill, the exact same direction which we had to go. Without trying to think about it too much, we tentatively but quickly made it to the bottom of the hill, without any big scary cats prowling about. With cougar tracks and cold snow out of sight and out of mind (mostly), we continued on to Skipper Lakes without nary a trail in sight. With only my instincts and gps to guide me, and more bush whacking and log-hopping (just annoyed), we arrived at a body of water!

"Large" Skipper Lake

Ahhh!

We made our way to the sunny side of this very small tear-shaped lake, which was quite relaxing after all that we’ve been through. We ate our lunch, relaxed on a log a bit and took a few pictures. And like any hike, you must do the hike in reverse if you want to return to your vehicle.

A smaller, frozen Skipper Lake

Amazingly, as we made our way back, the elusive trail revealed more of itself than it did on the way up. So our path back was a bit easier, thanks to staying mostly on the trail, learning from my mistakes, and going mostly downhill also helped. We still had logs, brush, and some snow to trudge through, but we made much better time on the way back.

On we trekked, through the snow fields, up the scary cougar-track snow-covered hill, back over Cinder Prairie, along the tree-lined ridges to the truck we go!

Cruel father makes son climb scary Cougar hill in snow.

As we reached the road leading back to the truck, Colby rejoiced, knowing the whole bush-whacking, log-dodging, cat-avoiding journey was behind us. That’s not to say he still wasn’t “just annoyed” at the overall experience.

Boundary Springs: Crater Lake National Park

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My oldest son Austin doesn't really care much for hiking. Especially when I have to tell him to "catch up" or "hurry up". He hates that. And I hate saying it. But the boy is usually slow and frankly, kinda out of shape. He's not overweight, he's just never been the most active kid.

 

Maybe, just maybe, today might be different....

 

I decided to take both of my sons on an easy 5.3 mile hike to Boundary Springs, the HEADWATERS and the very beginning of the ROGUE RIVER.

 

This was a scheduled Friends of the Umpqua hike. (The club hikes every other Saturday, everybody is welcome, you do not need to be a member to hike with them!)

 

We reached the Boundary Springs Trail at about 10:00am. The trail begins just outside the boundary of Crater Lake National Park, and crosses the boundary about a mile or so in. (I'm assuming this is where the name of the springs derived it's name from)

 

(This trail is easily accessed right off of Highway 230, just 5 miles south from the intersection of Highway 138 near Diamond Lake)

 



Let the march of the happy hikers begin!



 

John, who arranged the hike, directs the group to ensure no one goes astray.

 

The weather was FANTASTIC for a mid-November day. The blue skies and a warm sun made the hike so much more enjoyable than if it had been cold and rainy. This made both Austin and Colby quite happy.

 

 

The club traverses the only water crossing during the hike

 

Although there were no spectacular views of any mountains or large landscapes, the easy-going trail along the river through the thin trees was pleasant enough that such grandeur was not required.

 

 

The beautiful Rogue River in it's early stages

 

The trail maintained a fairly steady elevation, with only a few gradual hills, as it hugged the adolescent stages of the Rogue River. We crossed one dirt road and one small tributary on the journey to the start of this world-famous river.

 

 

A short break and photo op for the group

 

The group stayed fairly close as we trekked up the trail. And as usual, Richard O'Neill lagged behind, getting spectacular photos no doubt, as he typically does. However, being armed with all the latest in navigation equipment, he still managed to miss a critical left turn and ended up putting a tad more steps in than the rest of us.

 

Fortunately, Richard didn't stray too far and his portable technology guided him back on track. Admittedly, I would have to say I may have very well missed that turn myself, as it was not well marked. The trail signs in this area could certainly use a little updating!

 

 

 

No horses allowed.

That would defeat the purpose of hiking. 

 

 

Moss can be so... mossy. And pretty!

 

The hiking group eventually got to witness the birth of the mighty Rogue River as it spew forth from the side of a rather non-descript hillside, seemingly out of nowhere. Being the skeptic that I am, I was not convinced...

 

I proceeded further up the now not-so-well travel trail, looking for the origin of this divine source of water. I found none. The water really does just appear from an underground source of some sort.

 

Looking down-river from this spot,

I was actually standing at the very beginning of the Rogue River!

It just suddenly appears from the ground!

(See the next pic to see where I was standing when I took this photo)

 

Someone mentioned that they were expecting something much more spectacular, to which I said like what, like Old Faithful? I said if it was so spectacular-like, we'd have parked in a paved parking lot and walked just 50 feet to the spot where we are standing right now!

 

Meanwhile, I appreciated the rareness of this unique phenomenon. And the effort it took to get to this place. Quite amazing, I must admit.

 

The ABSOLUTE beginning of the Rogue!

The water literally comes straight out of the hillside at this exact spot.

Quite Amazing!

 

 

After being impressed with mother nature's underground wonder, the entire group had lunch on a sunlit hillside, feeling quite lucky to have such great weather. This must be a popular trail, as even on this November day, we encountered several other groups of hikers enjoying the trail.

 

We found a spot in the sun to enjoy lunch

 

Well, of course...

 

 

An amazing waterfall

 

 

The trail is well-maintained,

with varying scenery.

 

 

Contrary to the looks on their faces,

they said they actually enjoyed the hike!

 

 

The blue sky contributed to a fabulous day!

 

 

Green makes me happy!

 

On our way back, as myself, Austin and Colby approached the trailhead from where we started, I asked Austin what he thought. He said "I actually quite enjoyed it". I was surprised and pleased at the same time. (By the way, I had not, at any time during this hike, told him to "catch up" or "hurry up")

 

Wow. Two phenomenons in one day. Will wonders never cease?...

 

Two handsome young men

 

 

 

Castle Rock Fork, Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness

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Hummingbird Creek is our destination

With June 21^st being the official start of summer and the longest day of the year, it is perhaps fitting that this hike was the also longest hike of the year for me… so far. I decided to take Colby on this kick-off to summer trek, since I knew he would be able to handle what I knew would be a hefty dozen miles or so of trudging through another wilderness hike with dad. Lucky guy, that Colby is…

 

 

Let the trail begin!

 After an early rise and departure from home, this would also be a very long drive to get to the Castle Rock Fork trailhead near the Rogue-Umpqua Divide Wilderness. With many miles under the tires, we were ready to put miles under our boots. The late morning sun dictated that we could leave our jackets behind. The sign said 6 miles to Hummingbird Creek, our turn-around destination.

 

 

Nice trail

 The trail began immediately with a gentle yet steady descent, of which I reminded Colby that this would be an uphill ascent at the end of our hike. The look of realization of this fact on his face was priceless, to which I reassured him that the total elevation gain/loss of this hike was not that much, since it paralleled the creek below. He responded with a doubtful “hmmm”.

 

 



Picturesque view of the trail

The first mile had been recently maintained as evidenced by tool marks and vegetation cleared. But after that, on-the-go trail maintenance was left to me and Colby. We proceeded on what was an easy trail to follow, but it was obvious that this was not a well-used trail, as we continuously kicked limbs and other debris off to the side. I have always done this as a courtesy to future hikers, and this trail certainly needed it.

 

 

Rhododendron in bloom

 

More prettiness

We quickly reached the highlight of this hike: Rhododendrons, rhododendrons, and more rhododendrons! For the next few miles, I was delightfully distracted by these late pink blooming beauties. With no picturesque views of canyons or mountains and such, I was pleased to have something other than just tree trunks to look at.

 

 

Forest beauty

 

Although there were no big views to speak of, the forested path showed us a few sights of the creek, a rock wall dripping with water, and various wildflowers still in bloom.

 

 

 

 

Rhododendron with double-trunked tree in background

 



 

 

A rock face with tears of water

 

Things are a bit fuzzy

 



 

With rhododendron world behind us now, we reached the 4 mile mark, looking for the bridge which, according to my map, would cross Castle Creek and continue on up. Our “bridge” across the creek turned out to be a fallen log about 2 feet in diameter, 10 feet above the creek, and 50 feet in length. Ok, so this is what separates the men from the boys. After a climb onto the uprooted trunk and with Colby on my heels, we traversed nature’s footbridge, safely to the other side. Woohoo! To his credit, Colby showed no fear, nor did he express any before, during, or after this initiation to manhood.

Proud to have made it across!

 

"I wonder if I can make it back across that log..."

We took a short break after the log crossing, where Colby contemplated his place in the world. And I took pictures.

 



Castle Rock Fork

A small hillside stream

The trail now continued on the other side of the creek slowly at a steady climb, with glimpses of the creek to our left and way down the hillside. This part of the trail had many logs which we had to step over or negotiate around. So where are those trail maintenance guys now?!

 

Rocks, logs and rock formations on Castle Rock Fork

Soon, we were at Hummingbird Creek, a quaint little area, and our turn-around spot where we ate lunch on summer’s first day.

 

 

Colby decides to do his part in keeping the wilderness clean

After a meal of chicken and cheese, we explored the primitive Hummingbird campsite, just a small flat area where hikers and backpackers of years past have periodically spent the night on their way through this area. Colby found an empty potato chip bag, which he wanted to take. After asking him why, he replied that it shouldn’t had been left there. Well, how proud does THAT make a dad! I’d like to think I had something to do with his sense of respect for the great outdoors and those who visit it.

 

Colby earns a gold star for his environmental awareness!

On top of that, he found a tin can and wanted to take that too. We promptly put them in his pack, knowing we had made this small part of the wilderness just a little bit nicer.

 

 

On our return leg we enjoyed a few breaks, snacking and splashing cool stream water on our hot faces. We arrived back at the trailhead, logging a very respectable 12.28 miles. All that was left was the 2 hour drive home, leaving me thinking that it was a good thing I did this hike on the longest day of the year!

A 12 mile journey

 

Castle Rock Fork location in Oregon

 

NOTE: Right after lunch on the return leg, my camera started acting up. After much trouble-shooting, I attempted more picture taking, thinking I had captured some photos.  However, after getting home, I discovered that the last picture my camera saved was of Colby holding the trash he had found(last photo above). I’m glad I at least captured a meaningful moment :-)